penski61
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« on: June 26, 2011, 08:17:16 PM » |
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well with the help of Kenny theking , in the end of august i should be 3 linked up front and 4 linked in the rear since i have a tow rig and trailer now im taking advantage of the that and prepping the truck so that we should have the truck knocked out in 2 days possibly even one cut out the old shock hoops up front and removed the shocks and lower shock mounts off the axle cut out the stock mounting points for the transmission x-member and made up a new x-member got a good chunk of work done today cut out a stock crossmember in the back and added some cross braces to crossmembers i had already installed on the truck got the shock towers mocked up then added a truss? to them and made it removeable so i can take the bed off if needed need to fix the hole in the bed on the drivers side but other than that i think it came out good
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« Last Edit: February 22, 2012, 01:33:56 AM by SteeevO »
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SteeevO
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« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2011, 11:51:41 PM » |
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dang dude. those rear coilover mounts are a piece of work!
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theking
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« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2011, 09:30:11 AM » |
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Awesome!
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penski61
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2011, 06:50:43 PM » |
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got just about all the parts need coilovers for rear and the housing which is getting built by ruff stuff
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salad_man
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« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2011, 07:45:25 PM » |
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Awesome work!
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93 4Runner, Land Crusier rear coils, BJ spacers up front, 33x12.50 bfg m/t, rear e-locker, and some armor.
Call Sign: KJ6GQS
"Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads." - Doc, Back to the Future
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dkim568
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2011, 09:25:22 PM » |
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Nice work man! Are you gonna be coming here to Cali for a couple days? or is Kenny gonna be working there?
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penski61
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« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2011, 09:29:18 PM » |
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ill be towing the truck out there , gonna leave here either thurday night or friday depending on when Kenny wants to start but if we finish saturday Steve is insisting on doin a run on sunday
as of now looking to be the weekend of august 27th
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« Last Edit: June 27, 2011, 09:30:54 PM by penski61 »
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dkim568
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« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2011, 09:33:36 PM » |
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Awesome, let us know when you know for sure!
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gitarboyx
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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2011, 02:17:16 AM » |
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thats one crazy a$$ cross member!!! i like it! the shock mounts too!!! i love custom stuff!!! so cool man.
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When in doubt, gas it out.
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penski61
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« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2011, 06:41:54 AM » |
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ok so i double checked with Kenny this is a go for August 26th -29th
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Nissan Off Road & 4x4 Forum
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« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2011, 06:41:54 AM » |
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penski61
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« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2011, 08:52:33 PM » |
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got the rear towers all tied in , then started on the front hoops got the fender wells cut out so the hoops can fit in there then got the hoops all put together
i picked up some hoops from trail gear but they didnt quite work so i ended up cutting the ends off and sleeving them with some extra 2" i had not sure how trail-gear does it but i couldnt even buy the material for less than they sale the hoops
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roastbeef
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my name is mike, and i have an offroading habit.
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« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2011, 11:26:11 AM » |
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looking good.
i talked to steve for a little bit the other day about spring rates. i'm running 300's over 250's up front with the collars adjusted down to ride on the 300's at ride height and it rides great. i'd consider something similar for the rear, maybe 250's over 200's.
my current rear setup is 200's with 100's, and its not that great, a little soft. i have the collars on the rear adjusted down to ride on the 200's and i'm not really benefitting from the dual rate because there is not much weight back there (relative to the overall balance of the truck). if i was going to fool around with my rear springs, i'd probably try a single 250, set the ride height, and call it good. i got a feeling that would be ideal since the rear isn't going to really benefit from a dual rate spring setup since you will likely run a center limiting strap.
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full bodied frontier with buggy suspension.
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penski61
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« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2011, 02:20:05 PM » |
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ill be running the same for the fronts 300/250
i was thinking 200/200 for the rear but may go the 250/200
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theking
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« Reply #13 on: July 04, 2011, 12:23:31 AM » |
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how high are you setting your shock mounts at full stuff, what ride height/uptravel? also, do you have a good pic of your steering? what pitman, TRE, highsteer arms are you running? I already made your axle bridge. It looks like this one:
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« Last Edit: July 04, 2011, 12:25:20 AM by theking »
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roastbeef
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my name is mike, and i have an offroading habit.
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« Reply #14 on: July 04, 2011, 07:23:34 AM » |
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yea... i wasn't quite sure how the hoops are going to work out. with you guys pretty much splitting the work.
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full bodied frontier with buggy suspension.
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penski61
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« Reply #15 on: July 04, 2011, 08:47:49 AM » |
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front is set up for 6" up travel and rear at 7" up travel ride height would be 27" front and 28" rear stock pitman arm , chevy tre's on the tie rod and high angle tre on draglink and parts mike high steer arm with 1" spacer if i need to change over to heims or something let me know ill get some pics later today yea... i wasn't quite sure how the hoops are going to work out. with you guys pretty much splitting the work. curious why you wouldnt think they would work ? i set them for the up travel i wanted and set them so the mounts would be out of the way of the rear upper links and the bridge for the front upper not goin to get in the way of anything Kenny is gonna do Kenny we may have to modify/notch that bridge for the axle vent and the arb air line/fittings
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« Last Edit: July 04, 2011, 11:05:45 AM by penski61 »
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penski61
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« Reply #16 on: July 04, 2011, 04:12:16 PM » |
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front hoops moved all the emission stuff over for the coilovers to clear, still need to cut the rest of the stock cross member off the frame
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penski61
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« Reply #17 on: July 04, 2011, 04:25:35 PM » |
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steering
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roastbeef
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my name is mike, and i have an offroading habit.
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« Reply #18 on: July 04, 2011, 05:09:20 PM » |
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kenny would know better then i would, but i think the lower link length dominates where the shock hoops go. the pinion is going to rotate a little differently with links than it does with leafs, and if the shocks aren't straight up and down, the mounting tabs are really going to eat at the mounts on the shock body when it flexes. the steering setup is also going to dominate axle placement over the lower link mounts, and its going to be a little bit different then a leaf setup as well, because its so crucial for the drag link to be on the same plane with the trackbar. i don't think the rear is a big deal, but with the front, its hard for me to imagine setting up the shock hoops without having the lower links burned in.
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full bodied frontier with buggy suspension.
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SteeevO
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« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2011, 01:52:34 AM » |
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you guys are thinking way too far into this. the hoop will need to be above the lower mount. this will vary from truck to truck. before welding anything solid, cycling the suspension and checking for any possible binding is a good idea. in some cases you will have to have the hoop slightly farther back than the lowers to eliminate binding. but its hard to say exactly how to set this up over the internet. because like i said. it varies from truck to truck depending on how exactly youre building the suspension and how youre mounting the shocks.
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Rugged Rocks Newsletter | Check out my articles on CrawlerNews.com!------------------------------------------ "When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights"
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roastbeef
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my name is mike, and i have an offroading habit.
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« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2011, 08:12:41 AM » |
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its not hard to talk about, its hard to actually do shock mounts without the links on the axle. its already done, so i guess it doesn't matter now.
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full bodied frontier with buggy suspension.
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penski61
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« Reply #21 on: July 05, 2011, 02:08:33 PM » |
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if they arent right we will re-do them not a huge issue but ill probably be ok
just order springs from summit for the rear 14-250 and picking up the 200's from a guy on DR for $65
all that is left to do on the truck is load it up and head to so-cal in August
the new housing should be in the next couple of weeks , Kenny do you have a way to remove/install bearings on axle shafts? if not i may have to tear the old axle down then put in the new axle and just half weld in the leaf springs
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« Last Edit: July 05, 2011, 02:15:22 PM by penski61 »
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theking
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« Reply #22 on: July 06, 2011, 02:56:17 AM » |
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I have a 12 ton press and bearing splitter.
So, will the current drag link clear at full stuff? A 21" frame height at full stuff should work out great and clear the drag link and trackbar no problem. We won't need to make a bent track bar, too, which is a PITA to make! How long are the DOM pieces you have? Also, what all brackets and tabs do you have so far?
Also, are you getting the bump formed housing? I wonder if we can make Steevos axle bridge work with that?
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penski61
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« Reply #23 on: July 06, 2011, 07:14:25 AM » |
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i forgot to check the draglink for full stuff , right now i have 5-1/4 before the draglink would hit so i could either get the pitman arm from trail gear for the yota box and grind 3 of the splines so it would fit the steering shaft and lose the 1" spacer , notch and re-enforce the frame or loose the spacer and lower the steering box down
just about everything i have is 40" long except 2 pieces of 2" that are 36" the brackets and tabs i have are the 2 front lower frame link mount , 2 lower axle link mounts ,shock tabs (4) flat (4) curved , and the panhard axle mount Steevo said he has the rear upper lower frame mount combo and will get the rear axle lower link mounts
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« Last Edit: July 06, 2011, 07:34:19 AM by penski61 »
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penski61
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« Reply #24 on: July 07, 2011, 05:35:15 PM » |
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just got the springs for the rear , now to get the coilovers haha and just got the tracking order for the housing , will be here monday
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« Last Edit: July 07, 2011, 06:47:53 PM by penski61 »
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