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Author Topic: so I broke my frame.... lets go 3 link?  (Read 8240 times)
ehtrain
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« on: May 17, 2015, 02:28:16 PM »

heres a video of me doing a river crossing. that cursed rear bumper.  1min 25 sec you hear the BANG of the leaf spring sucking the frame inward hahaha. I knew it was abit rusty back there. but... damn! wasn't that bad 2 yrs ago and pre many many bumper smashes.... haha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZAYyubiBNk






SO I sorta devised a way to fix it. Not the greatest but not the worst. I can see no real way to restore it back to proper strength with any repair method to equal stock level. laying frame length plates on all 4 sides is just bad. I'm no pro pressure/structure welder guy but I know its hard to get 6-7ft worth of weld on all 4 corners and get no porosity from the rusty stuff below no matter how clean you get it. so To me having 4 sides of a welded box is just stupid and improper. unless you want to get all your welds x-ray'd the structure shouldnt be relying only its welds to resist twist and vibration like a 4x4 can see.

So what I have done is find some 3x4 .125in wall rectangle tube. I cut the entire seemed side off and discarded it. The seem is the weakest area, that's why we use seemless tubing for roll cages. I then began to patch and bevel every plate its full thickness to the next plate. thus providing 100% penetration like you would get from a structural or pressure quality weld. I'm also hoping by maintaining that factory bend in the 3x4 tubing and only having 2 heavily overlapped welds should increase my strength significantly. I'm using my 230v thermal arc lift tig for everything to help increase my weld quality. and yes I could have planned my steel abit better and only used 2 pieces total.... but hindsight lol







so then I got this idea! instead of making a ladder bar to help the crappy leaf spring which the 35s and diesel torque just punish lol. why don't I just design a 3 link kit for the d21 series truck!

so I have been designing a weld in self jiggin 3 link kit with 2 trusses. the upper link truss is a piece of notched 2.5in .250in wall seemless hitch tubing. the rear truss/cross member will be replaced with a 1.75in .125wall dom tube. all the rod ends are forged chromoly 4340.

I'm also designing this to fit under a non body lifted truck. I have tested fitted it on long box regular cab 2wd frame, and my king cab 4x4. the jig seems to fit both perfect. however for the hustler (reg cab short box) i have a feeling it wont fit. the box is approx 2in shorter and the wheel arch is moved a couple inches from the king cab box. So im saying a king cab box and the short box are 2 different boxes. the reg cab short box actually has a slightly shorter box.... haha phrasing
 I would love any input people have for the kit as I would love to make this a production kit.




this is the basic kit so far. I'm doing small changes to the cnc programs as I go to hopefully end up with something good. Also does anyone know of any decent 2d drawing programs that arent 1500$?



I think I need to put my springs under the frame. but No idea where I can find the proper length and spring rate i need right now. using the pathfinder lift coil under the frame will add about 6-8in worth of lift ball park lol

« Last Edit: May 17, 2015, 02:48:27 PM by ehtrain » Logged
ehtrain
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« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2015, 02:51:37 PM »

if anyone tells you the h233b is weak. show them this picture.

the ever so "awesome" dana 44  ring gear on the right and h233b 31 spline on the left. 9.5in wide ring gear vs the 8.5 dana 44.

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ehtrain
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« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2015, 11:18:59 AM »

Alright so I got my links all welded in and got a good majority moched up. Found a nice spot under the frame for the coils so they are outboard as they can possibly be. I decide to ditch the conventional thoughts and make an upper control arm system over using a Panhard bar. I'm not a fan of Panhard as they create side arc to the natural flow of the links to axle which arc the other way. I just find this waggy side to side feel unattractive so I'm deleting it.





maxing the 34 degree center joint no problem. 15in travel to boot without and driveshaft clearances taken into affect





how about it steve got any custom coilovers to throw my way before we head to moab in august? would be great to meet you
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ehtrain
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« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2015, 10:13:45 PM »

if anyone is still reading this thread. the suspension works great. very stable and far exceeded my expectations for handling for no sway bars on a tall truck on highway and hard corners. suspension seems to flex and take everything in stride very nicely.







on 2.5in lift rancho leaf springs up front

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SteeevO
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« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2015, 03:42:44 PM »

Noice work!  Thumb-Up
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dvdswan
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« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2015, 07:26:50 PM »

nice job for sure.   Thumb-Up
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Dave
96 HB XE 4WD
Calmini 3" SL, Steering, LSD frt, Lock-Rite rear
ehtrain
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« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2015, 08:31:34 AM »

thanks guys!

I got the cnc programs all cleaned up. so anyone looking for this kit or if they just want the link system to make coil over setup then I can get some prices together depending on what options are requested. I currently only have instructions and designs for a standard coil system.

with the jeep xj front coils (85+ newer wagoneer also but not grand wagoneer) this offers about 4-5in of lift. if someone uses calmini 3" pathfinder lift coil it will net about 6-7in lift.
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ehtrain
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2015, 10:15:22 AM »




Need solid axle swap brake lines for the front of your d21?

I can provide these 100% DOT approved brake lines to fit dana 44 or gm/corporate 10 bolt front axles with disc brakes. They mount directly to factory brake line bracket like a stock line should. The ends have been updated to the domestic brake caliper on your solid front axle. Plus the lines have been extended for approx 4in of lift.

160$ CAD +shipping  -colours also available.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2015, 10:17:22 AM by ehtrain » Logged
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