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Author Topic: X-350 Super Duty; or, Oz's SAS Build!  (Read 24451 times)
Oz
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« on: July 06, 2012, 05:54:00 PM »



The Plan:

Front: Dana 60 front axle out of a 2004 Ford Super duty. High pinion driver side drop. The axle shafts are 35 spline inner and outer. WMS to WMS is 72 inches.

Rear: Chevy 14 Bolt Full Floater, full width

Gearing: 4.56

Wheels: Hummer Dual Beadlock split 8 bolt wheels, 16.5 with cut and recentered 8 x 6.5" pattern, 3.5" backspacing

Sus: 3 link front, 14" COs, leaf sprung rear (3 link in the future), 14" Bills

Tires: Goodyear Wrangler radials 37x12.50x16.5

Detroit Lockers F & R

Yeah we're talking a legit Hammers rig

Picts as they come. I'm picking one axle up tomorrow and the rear next week

- - -
Update 070612: Picts of Dana 60

Just picked this up. Pretty much complete except gears which I was going to change anyway. Rotors, hubs, unibearing hubs, locking hubs, 35 Spline Inner and Outers, Calipers, brake pads, drag link, center link, 3 member, and 3.5" axle tub with housing, already shaved. Got this for  really sweet deal!!  OH and the hubs have an ABS wire coming out - will have to see if it works!!!

Steering knuckle






« Last Edit: July 17, 2012, 09:20:37 PM by Oz » Logged
theking
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« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2012, 10:37:12 PM »

Good deal.  The 35 spline unit bearing hubs are worth it.  I think we'll have to either retube or extend the driver side.  Not much to work with there.  Didn't arron retube his 60?  Or just put those knuckles on a diamond housing.

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« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2012, 02:50:01 PM »

This thing is going to be a monster.
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"When you hit the tree between the headlights thats understeer. Oversteer is when you hit the tree between the Tail Lights"
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« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2012, 03:11:23 PM »

In two years......TWO YEARS, I tell you!!
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Oz
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« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2012, 11:37:10 PM »

Yup, busted!!! To tell ya the truth, all those years waiting for gears to finish the TS, it was a bit anti climatic. I want more!
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« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2012, 10:54:28 AM »

In two years......TWO YEARS, I tell you!!

In a couple of years, I seriously think I'll go down this path.
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penski61
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2012, 08:49:14 PM »

Good deal.  The 35 spline unit bearing hubs are worth it.  I think we'll have to either retube or extend the driver side.  Not much to work with there.  Didn't arron retube his 60?  Or just put those knuckles on a diamond housing.


mine was a ball joint dana 60 so it had a little more tube on the drivers side but not much more , i had mine re-tubed but not by pulling the tube from the diff  since many companies wont do it due to possibly cracking the housing

mine was chamfered at the end of the tubes then sleeved internally , then built the welds up and ground down smooth
axle was done in a jig so its straight and ive taken it out with no issues on the tube
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Oz
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« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2012, 09:52:15 AM »

Mine's also a ball joint 60. Currie wants $400 for the retube but I think it's worth it. I got the axle for $350 so 750 total into the axle is still pretty good
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« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2012, 09:56:02 AM »

sorry i meant mine was a ball joint non unit bearing , which doesnt really make a difference
did you verify that its actually a 60 and not a 50?

also i recommend shavin the bottom of the housing for more clearance along with the 14 bolt
« Last Edit: July 15, 2012, 09:59:21 AM by penski61 » Logged
Oz
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« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2012, 10:54:52 AM »

sorry i meant mine was a ball joint non unit bearing , which doesnt really make a difference
did you verify that its actually a 60 and not a 50?

Yes I looked up the BOM stamp on the ps side of the tube. The guy I got it from said it was from an 04 Super Duty but it's actually an 05 Super Duty D60
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« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2012, 10:54:52 AM »

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penski61
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« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2012, 11:02:56 AM »

cool , alot of people sell d50 as d60 cause they look exactly the same
you can double check on what you have by measuring the size of the ring gear
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« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2012, 11:14:44 AM »

also are you planning on shortening the passenger side? if so you might as well put the inners up for sale cause you wont be using those anymore
try and get the axle re-tubed to the 78 F250 so you dont have to get custom axle shafts
« Last Edit: July 15, 2012, 11:18:10 AM by penski61 » Logged
Oz
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« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2012, 12:03:24 PM »

also are you planning on shortening the passenger side? if so you might as well put the inners up for sale cause you wont be using those anymore
try and get the axle re-tubed to the 78 F250 so you dont have to get custom axle shafts

Yes and yes :thumbsup:

When Currie does a retube they do both  sides and I may as well have them do the inners as well
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« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2012, 05:27:50 PM »

i saw your gonna run detroits , you planning on running hydro assist? if anything id atleast run arb up front and detroit in the back
not having a selectable up front is gonna suck
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Oz
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« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2012, 06:18:41 PM »

i saw your gonna run detroits , you planning on running hydro assist? if anything id atleast run arb up front and detroit in the back
not having a selectable up front is gonna suck

That's a prudent suggestion. I'll run it by Kenny, he is the master of this build. He said I didn't need hydro assist , we'll have to see how it goes
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« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2012, 06:26:06 PM »

running open wouldn't be an issue but running locked up front all the time is gonna be a pain to turn with 37's when you get pushed against the rocks ,sometimes i have issues turning with the arb locked even with hydro
the weight of the X is gonna play a huge factor in turning as well , i dont think Kenny's had a rig heavier than 3k lol
« Last Edit: July 15, 2012, 06:28:07 PM by penski61 » Logged
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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2012, 07:58:24 PM »

Haha.  That's right!   Also, never had anything up front but a welded dif.  lol  Since you're on a tight budget, probably just run it open for now and do the detroit and hydro at the same time later

   
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« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2012, 08:10:17 PM »

you goin to run a nissan box? if so might as well drill and tap it before you put it in then just cap the fittings until your ready for hydro
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Oz
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« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2012, 08:12:11 PM »

Will do'
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« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2012, 06:52:41 PM »

I can show you how i did mine.
It came out really nice. I'm going to be doing a writeup on it as well.
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Oz
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« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2012, 11:14:24 PM »

picked up the FF 14 b today:



Steeven can you bring over a forklift to help me get it out of the X?  Hit
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« Reply #21 on: July 18, 2012, 11:55:30 PM »

and he lifted it into the x all by himself.

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« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2012, 12:01:22 AM »

350 pounds of no nonsense beefiness. Thumb-Up

 
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Oz
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« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2012, 08:01:58 PM »

This is for Kenny but thought I would share:

Kenny here are examples I found about my idea for the tube fenders:









As this animation will show, I want to do mine a little different - tubing inside the sheetmetal, but still keeping it looking like a Rover:

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« Reply #24 on: November 06, 2012, 12:01:47 AM »

I like the maroon one the best
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